TLDR? Your loss, but scroll to the end. Cutting corners now will definitely show up come harvest time.
Hey! You made it, congratulations! Glad you enjoyed the first article. I will start being a little nicer now that I know you are focused and ready to learn. You should now have your light and ventilation hung and at least functioning. Let’s start with the basics. I’m sure we included a timer with your discounted tent package that you purchased from us. Now it’s time to set that to 18 hours on and 6 hours off. My veg lights turn on at 6 am and off at midnight, but you can set yours to come on and off based on your own schedule. The only thing that is very important is while those lights are off, there shouldn’t be a pinhole of light coming on to those leaves. Even that small amount can disrupt a plants slumber which can cause a lot of stress that can cause hermaphroditism. Will get into that later. Just make sure wherever the tent is located, it is blacked out. Most people put theirs in the basement or spare bedroom. Later, during the bloom cycle you will adjust this to 12 hours on and 12 hours off. We will get into that also later. Your on seedling stage now, so keep focus! Great. Now timer is set, the light is on. Let’s jump into the environment.
Your main brain of the tent is likely that bad ass AC infinity fan that you definitely purchased from us. Ahem. If not, I’m sure you just found us and ready to support local over those posers at amazon. They really don’t know anything about growing. They keep their year old nutes in hot ass warehouses, which are bootlegged from the start, so your likely just feeding your plants tired, watered down kelp with all of the natural hormones cooked out of it. Ahem. Sorry back to the AC infinity. Those guys are smart over there. I don’t know if they are growers fr, but definitely have the game figured out when it comes to tech. So just spend some time reading the directions, check out their website if needed, and set your fan to turn on around 80 degrees, plus or minus a few. Personally I like to run mine on the warmer side all the way till peak bloom, when I see the plant about finished building biomass, and I start bringing the temps down gradually. Just like it does in the summer to fall. Huh. Another pro tip. So now you have your fan plugged into your controller and running, you have thoroughly read through the instructions and understand all of the features on the fan. Nice. Light is on the timer, and fan kicks on when it gets too warm. Check and check. Fan exhausts hot air through the top, and pulls cool air through the bottom. Lets go.
Next thing you want to consider is the humidity. Humidity and temperature are like kids on a see saw. Well, maybe not exactly, but let’s just say they are connected. They are like one heavy kid and one light kid and you have to move one toward the fulcrum while the other has to… Ah shit never mind. Just go read briefly about the concept of VPD or vapor pressure deficit, being the interaction between temperature, humidity, the pressure around the leaf, and how it affects transpiration, or the rate at which water is released through the stomata. These are the tiny “lungs” of a plant that can also be an entry point for nutrients and bio-stimulants via foliar feeding. Sorry if you’re not really ready for that, just bank the info for now. Anyway. At least print out the chart, because thats what’s really important. I attached it below. Also, don’t forget to throw leaf surface temperature in the equation. Eh, or how about we just get some rough ranges for now and you do your best. Sound good? Good. Tents arent really for perfect control, though you can definitely dial in any space if you spend enough time…and money. ha! Look, it’s an investment in your mental health, ok?? Anyway, humidity. For seedlings it’s best if you have it pretty high, so use a dome to cover them. 80-90% is fine to get them started. Gradually harden them off to the environment of the tent. There is that word again, gradual… huh. For established vegging plants 60-70% is a good place to start. You likely will need a humidifier in your space to bring this up consistently. Preferably on a Niwa or AC infinity controller. Thats the good stuff… Oh! speaking about good stuff… If you read this far you are in for a treat! Pot o’ gold at the end of the rainbow! Go download the Photone app. This one will really save your ass when it comes to cooking your plants with that brand new perfectly sized HLG or Photontek fixture you just bought from us. Go rip through their blog articles also. Especially ones that talk about PPFD and DLI. I attached the PPFD ranges below. Go learn it. No shortcuts, no complaining. No one said this was going to be easy, you have to really want it. Have you ever heard…it takes fire to grow fire!
Alright, enough hand holding. Get on it. Be aggressive with your education. Stay up late reading. Wake up early and spend time with your plants. Put in extra work. It’s not for nothing, I promise. More free game from your friendly team at Green Dragon.
Seedlings- 78-80 degrees 75-90% humidity
Vegetive- 78-82 degrees 60-70% humidity
Bloom- 78-85 degrees, high side with CO2 supplementation. 40-60% humidity
Try not to let temp or humidity variance exceed 10 degrees or 10%. Especially in bloom, and watch for night time spikes. Did I say gradual? Keep track of mins and maxes and make adjustments to your space to get everything closer to ideals. This is not a one and done setup, you have to monitor this!